CLIFF NOTE VERSION INSTALL

The carb should be close to adjusting like stock when finished. This should give you the high adjustability back an H screw will be totally adjustable. The carb will need to dry over night at this point. Mix a very small amount of JB weld and use a toothpick to place a small amount in the hole shown. Clean carb with a shot of brake clean and let it dry. To regain the high speed adjustment you will need to JB weld the high speed jet closed. You may find that the H screw is totally closed and you need more rpm's as the saw isn't reaching the rpm it should. When you go with bigger main and auxillary it also affects the top end fuel.

This will be for the ported and Big Bored saws. Now for the brave and builders.LETS GO BIGGER!!! Reassemble and retest saw, see if there is enough screw to set a satisfactory idle with more screw to spare. With stock I would recommend 1mm hole to start. If there are problems having enough idle screw to get saw to idle but saw is running good otherwise remove carb from saw as a hole will be needed in the throttle plate to give the saw more air it is requiering from the introduction of more fuel it is recievingДrill it on the top of the throttle plate away from the jet on the bottom. 55 for mixing chamber-this will always be the same.

CLIFF NOTE VERSION INSTALL

Reinstall jet with the hammer and flat punch.ДЄt this point reassemble and set carb and install in saw for your first test run. This is why I drill both jets first so when I remove jet I can check it. I have not seen this happen with a true Zama only Aftermarket carbs. The membrain can come out and block the mixing holes and cause tuning problems. Now look at the underside of the main jet you removed.is the membrain still in place? If it is you can reinstall the main jet.if not take your small drill bit and work it back in. The jets drill slghtly harder since they are brass. This helps ideling caricturistics.Дrill the hole closest to the edge. This is the one constant jet size on all carbs. Next the mixing chamber hole under the main jet is drilled to. You can sand it smooth again but reinstalling it with a sharp rap will usually make the edges lay back down. You will probably deform the jet slightly wher you grab. I find it will come right out when using a rocking motion. I then use the modified pliers to get ahold of the main jet (firmly but not crushing). I drill the main jet first then move to the auxilery jet. Here is the carb lay out, with jets identified.

I can see no adverse results or efrecommendyou drill threw it. I do this because there is a membrain beneath the main and auxilery jet.

I drill totally by hand so I can feel what the bit is doing and when it goes threw the jet. Micro Drill Bits ,Caliper to measure and make sure of drill size being used.ДЄlso if eye sight is poor a set of magnifying glasses. I know a few of you have been waiting for this and others just want to know/see how it's done.ДЇirst off this is for the Zama C3M on Dolmar 6400-7900 and will also work for on Husqvarna 365-372's old style.

Cliff note version